PaddleWise Discussion on Tethers
A big thanks goes to Peter Osman for organizing this PaddleWise Discussion
on Tethers for this website.
Date: Thu, 9 Sep 1999 21:53:17 +1000
From: Peter Osman
Subject: [Paddlewise] Self Rescue Practice in Kleppers
Here are some notes on our attempts to practice self rescue techniques in
realistic conditions. The boats were both expedition Klepper Aerius singles.
One kayaker had 3 years, the other 1 year's experience. We arranged for a
small motor boat to be nearby in case of difficulty and told the coast guard
what we were up to. Safety equipment was a VHF maritime radio, EPIRB, paddle
float reentry system, spare paddles, flotation bags, sponges, electric pumps
and a collapsible bailing bucket. PFD's. wetsuits and cags were worn. On the
day the wind was about 10knots, the swell was 2m and there was a slight chop
on the swell.
(SNIP) Personal tethers
One of our goals was to try out a personal tether (a plastic coiled
surfboard leash). It was attached at the cord end to the center top of the
rib behind the seat and via a velcro band to my wrist. The wrist attachment
seemed to provide maximum manoeuvrability for minimum leash length (minimum
risk of entanglement). It took practice to quickly remove the band and this
would have been easier if tags were attached to locate the edges. There were
no problems with entanglement on wet exiting but there was some difficulty
flipping the kayak upright. Normally I lean over the hull of the overturned
boat and flip it toward me. With a personal tether it was necessary to flip
the kayak upright by pushing it from the side nearest me. Forgot until too
late that it was necessary to reach right under the boat to the other side
of the cockpit to achieve this. (Should have read Ralph's postings more
carefully). Came out of this exercise convinced that a carefully designed
system of personal tethering would not tangle or cause problems and that a
bit more practice was all that was needed. (SNIP)
Peter's O & R
Date: Thu, 09 Sep 1999 10:02:50 -0700
From: rdiaz@ix.netcom.com
Subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Self Rescue Practice in Kleppers
(SNIP)- --I am surprised at the thought of tethering one's self to your
boat instead of tethering the paddle or you to your paddle, which are more
common approaches to tethering. Interesting that it works.
You used a coiled surfboard leash; I am glad to see it did not entangle you.
The same is true for the coiled jetski cutoff switch leash I use to tether
my paddle to the boat. I have had one guru go into a near rage when he saw
my jetski-origin tether saying it would entangle me but it hasn't. I think
sturdy, coiled tethers are far superior to the bungee cord or regular cord
tether...they keep out of the way because they are coiled. And even if one
gets around your wrist by accident it will neither knot up tight on you
(like would cord) or stretch to a binding grip on you as might bungee
tethers.(SNIP)
Ralph
-----------------------------------------------
Ralph Diaz . . . Folding Kayaker newsletter
PO Box 0754, New York, NY 10024
Tel: 212-724-5069; E-mail: rdiaz@ix.netcom.com
"Where's your sea kayak?"----"It's in the bag."
-----------------------------------------------
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 08:41:28 +1000
From: Peter Osman
Subject: [Paddlewise] Self Rescue Practice in Kleppers
(SNIP) Re tether issues. Actually I should have said that I always tether
my paddle to the kayak with the intention of holding on when capsized. It's
so instinctive that I forgot to mention it. I don't normally tether myself
to the boat, the personal tether is something I've been thinking about since
starting to kayak - I know it's controversial but I intend to use it when
faced with unexpected and extreme conditions away from surf. i.e. the sort
of situation Lone Madsen found herself in. I note several very well known
long distance paddlers use them. (SNIP)
All the best, PeterO
Date: Thu, 9 Sep 1999 20:20:33 -0700
From: Matt Broze
Subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Self Rescue Practice in Kleppers
Ralph Diaz wrote
(SNIP) --I am surprised at the thought of tethering one's self to your
boat instead of tethering the paddle or you to your paddle, which are more
common approaches to tethering. Interesting that it works. (SNIP)
If I was a solo paddler in high winds, I'd consider tethering myself to the
kayak in case I capsized and failed to roll. Also I think it is much better
to tether the paddle to the boat rather than to your wrist. That way if you
have either the paddle or the boat in your grasp you still have the other
necessary component to resuming paddling.
(SNIP) You used a coiled surfboard leash; I am glad to see it did not
entangle you. The same is true for the coiled jetski cutoff switch leash I
use to tether my paddle to the boat. (SNIP)
My experience with coiled tethers (and telephone cords) is that they tangle
with themselves and sometimes this puts your paddle on a very short leash
indeed. I don't see why a coiled tether wouldn't reach the end of its
stretch at some point just like a shock cord and then possibly wrap tightly
around some part of your body. Either a shock cord or a coiled tether is far
less likely to entrap one as a non-stretchy cord. I use about a 30" tether
of 3/16" shock cord that can stretch to twice its length or more (and a
nylon hook). It stores wrapped around the middle of my paddle shaft where it
is always quickly available. It is very lightweight, and opposed to the
coiled kind, doesn't go clack, clack, clack on the deck with every stroke
when in use. Also it never tangles with itself or drags in the water. Since
it is tied to the paddle shaft it has a very secure attachment that I trust
more than velcro. Tie it tightly enough so it doesn't slide around on the
shaft when you paddle but can be slid to one side should you want to-like
maybe when doing a paddle-float rescue without detaching the tether. It is
simple to make using under $2.00 worth of materials (about 3.5 feet of shock
cord and a $.69 nylon hook. I push the cord through the nylon clip and tie a
figure eight knot to stop it from pulling through the hole. I tie it on the
paddle end with a bowline. Easy to do in advance for a two piece paddle but
difficult to tie under tension to a one piece paddle (tight enough so it
doesn't slide around).
Matt Broze
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 10:54:13 +0700
From: Dave Williams
Subject: RE: [Paddlewise] Self Rescue Practice in Kleppers
Peter Osman wrote:
(SNIP)...I don't normally tether myself to the boat, the personal tether
is something I've been thinking about since starting to kayak - (SNIP)
I have tethered myself to the boat while playing in heavy surf on a
sit-on-top. Since my favorite place to surf has a very rocky sea wall, the
last thing I want is to have to swim close to the wall to retrieve my boat.
A knife or a fool-proof means of detaching yourself from the tether is, of
course, crucial.
Cheers,
Dave Williams
Date: Thu, 09 Sep 1999 23:57:20 -0700
>From Ralph Diaz rdiaz@ix.netcom.com
Subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Self Rescue Practice in Kleppers
Matt Broze wrote:
(SNIP) If I was a solo paddler in high winds, I'd consider tethering myself
to the kayak in case I capsized and failed to roll. Also I think it is much
better to tether the paddle to the boat rather than to your wrist. (SNIP)
That has always been my approach, i.e. tethered paddle to deck setup. I
think Lindemann tethered himself to his Klepper during his cross-Atlantic
voyage, at least he did so during his daily wash-up swims. There is a risk
of entanglement but the loss of one's boat while alone well out at sea would
be a bigger problem.
(SNIP) My experience with coiled tethers (and telephone cords) is that they
tangle with themselves and sometimes this puts your paddle on a very short
leash indeed. I don't see why a coiled tether wouldn't reach the end of its
stretch at some point just like a shock cord and then possibly wrap tightly
around some part of your body. Either a shock cord or a coiled tether is far
less likely to entrap one as a non-stretchy cord. (SNIP)
I have not found this to be so with the tether I use, which is a lightweight
one that is used by jetskiers. It hooks between the jetskiers PFD and the
kill switch on the jetski, so that if he were to fall off, the engine would
automatically be cut off. I used the loop in mine, which is meant to hold
the key, and placed my 2-paddle through it before putting my paddle
together; it hardly slides at all on the shaft, staying put much better than
the velcro used with the bungee tethers. The other end has the snap hook
meant for tying to the jetskiers vest; I use it to attach to a deck D-ring.
The snap hook is beefier and with a better opening gate than the standard
bungee tether sold under the Perception and other names; it will even fit
around the massive brass D-ring on the Nautiraid fore of the cockpit. The
tether weighs less than the bungee ones available commercially, never snags
on anything on my deck like my bungee one has. If I am not using it, it just
seems to coil up out of the way while still hanging on the paddle; my wife
doesn't like tethering but she does not complain about the jetski tether
left on the paddle (she did about the bungee type if left on). I have tried
seeing if it would entangle me or wrap around me; it doesn't seem to want
to. Regular cord and bungee will however in my experience.
(SNIP) I use about a 30" tether of 3/16" shock cord that can stretch to
twice its length or more (and a nylon hook). It stores wrapped around the
middle of my paddle shaft where it is always quickly available. It is very
lightweight, and opposed to the coiled kind, doesn't go clack, clack, clack
on the deck with every stroke when in use. (SNIP)
My coil one doesn't do that. The official heavier coil type sold for
kayaking probably does from how you describe your experience.
(SNIP) Also it never tangles with itself or drags in the water. (SNIP)
My coil doesn't either. You should get one from West Marine and see for
yourself.
(SNIP) Since it is tied to the paddle shaft it has a very secure attachment
that I trust more than Velcro. (SNIP)
Yes, the official Perception bungee tether uses velcro which I wouldn't have
full trust in either.
(SNIP) My experience with coiled tethers (and telephone cords) is that
they tangle with themselves and sometimes this puts your paddle on a very
short leash indeed. I don't see why a coiled tether wouldn't reach the end
of its stretch at some point just like a shock cord and then possibly wrap
tightly around some part of your body. (SNIP)
The coil I have would not work that well with a one piece paddle either but
is real tight on the two piece; I slip it on prior to connecting the two
piece paddle. Oh, I think they cost $5.99 if I recall correctly.
ralph
-----------------------------------------------
Ralph Diaz . . . Folding Kayaker newsletter
PO Box 0754, New York, NY 10024
Tel: 212-724-5069; E-mail: rdiaz@ix.netcom.com
"Where's your sea kayak?"----"It's in the bag."
-----------------------------------------------
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 00:22:40 -0700
From: Dave Kruger
Subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Self Rescue Practice in Kleppers
Ralph Diaz wrote:
(SNIP) Yes, the official Perception bungee tether uses velcro which I
wouldn't have full trust in either. (SNIP)
I was given one of the Perception units, and used it for a while until the
Velcro sleeve detached from its bungie. Examination showed the joining of
the two was doomed by design to fall apart. In any good thrashing, I think
the Perception unit would fail.
OTOH, I have used the "official" telephone cord units for years and really
like them, with Matt's caveats in mind (especially that damn clack clack
noise!). FWIW, I detach these and stow them in a pocket when in/near surf
zones, because of the entrapment hazard.
Dave Kruger
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 07:59:08 -0400
From: John Fereira
Subject: RE: [Paddlewise] Self Rescue Practice in Kleppers
Audrey Sutherland (author of Paddling my own Canoe) demonstrated her
personal tether at the LL Bean symposium this year. She ties a piece of rope
to a clip that she attaches to her deck rigging just in front of the
cockpit. The rope has a large non-slipping loop in that she puts over one
shoulder and under the other arm. She also uses a paddle leash from the
middle of her paddle to a deck line on the other side of the cockpit.
She answered the inevitable question about worrying about getting tangled up
during a capsize/re-entry like this. She practiced using the tethers doing
capsizes and re-entries over and over and over in warm water but rough
conditions (in Hawaii) so she could pretty much tell what the ropes would do
when a capsize occurred. She did carry a knife on her vest in the event that
she tangled herself but she practiced enough that she felt that chances of
getting tangled were extremely low. When asked if she capsized during one of
her 650 mile solo paddles down the Alaskan coast she said that she did,
once, and was back in here boat (a 12' inflatable) in 23 seconds.
She said that she never paddles without a personal tether because losing
your boat in cold water is the worst thing that could happen. In strong
winds the kayak could easily be blown across the water at 10mph and no human
can swim that fast. All the PFD is going to do is keep you afloat as you die
of hypothermia.
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 08:44:22 -0400 (EDT)
From: Elaine Harmon
Subject: RE: [Paddlewise] Self Rescue Practice in Kleppers
John Fereira wrote:
(SNIP) Audrey Sutherland (author of Paddling my own Canoe) demonstrated
her personal tether at the LL Bean symposium this year. She ties a piece
of...(SNIP)
How long would you estimate her tether was?
Slainte! e
Elaine Harmon
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 09:13:21 PDT
From: Philip Torrens
Subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Paddle tethers
Matt Broze wrote:
(SNIP) I use about a 30" tether of 3/16" shock cord that can stretch to
twice its length or more (and a nylon hook). (SNIP)
I use a very light and weak snap fastener to clip the loose coil of my
paddle leash to my chart case to eliminate the click-clack paddly-whack! If
I have to wet exit or do a very extended brace or sweep, the clip lets go
easily.
(SNIP) Also it never tangles with itself or drags in the water. Since it is
tied to the paddle shaft it has a very secure attachment that I trust more
than Velcro. (SNIP)
I share your mis-givings about the "sheer strength" of the narrow (inch wide
or so) and short Velcro strips the typical commerical coil paddle leash is
supplied with. Especially since the "sheer strength" is reduced when the
Velcro is wet. I sometimes wonder if the manufacturers remember that the
entire leash system needs to be strong enough not only to hold a paddle that
might be "towed" in the water beside the kayak, but to withstand sharp tugs
with a swimming kayaker holding on to the paddle shaft, with a loaded kayak
being jerked away by large seas at the other end of the leash. In this case,
the leash might be the kayaker's only hope of not losing their boat, and the
Velcro would be the weakest link in the chain. I happen to have access to
Velcro that is wide enough to wrap fully around my paddle shaft "sideways"
so I've upgraded the Velcro strap to one that is about six inches wide and
the full diameter of the shaft. With this much surface area gripping - many
times the orginal - I'm confident the Velcro would not fail before some
other part of the "system" - my shoulder for example - gave way.
(SNIP) Tie it tightly enough so it doesn't slide around on the shaft when
you paddle but can be slid to one side should you want to-like maybe when
doing a paddle-float rescue without detaching the tether. (SNIP)
Most knots in bungi have a tendency to work themselves loose after a while,
though the bowline (which I know as a "bolan") sounds good. Another
possibility would be the large metal "crip-ons", similiar to the small ones
used to hold rudder cables. Available at boating supply stores.
Philip Torrens
N49°16' W123°06'
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 09:46:51 -0700
From: Dan Hagen
Subject: Re: [Paddlewise] boat leash (was Self Rescue Practice in Kleppers)
Matt Broze wrote:
(SNIP) If I was a solo paddler in high winds, I'd consider tethering myself
to the kayak in case I capsized and failed to roll. (SNIP)
Excellent advice, since losing contact with your boat in these circumstances
can be deadly. While I would hope that I could keep a grip on my boat (or
tethered paddle) after a wet exit, I am not willing to bet my life on it. I
do not paddle in high winds without my boat leash. I use two pieces of nylon
webbing (one of which is bright red) connected together in the middle via a
cam buckle. This provides a quick release. Pulling the end of the red strap
releases the buckle. I also carry a knife in case of entanglement, and I
remove the strap in the surf zone. The risk posed by the leash strikes me as
much less than the alternative. Most folks are gambling that they will be
able to hang on to their boat (or paddle), but that is not a gamble I am
willing to take. Swimming after your boat in high winds is a losing
proposition.
Dan Hagen
Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 23:17:03 -0700
From: Doug Lloyd
Subject: [Paddlewise] Tangled Up In Blue
Regarding experiences with tether lines:
1. Paddle Tethers
I've been playing around with these things for years. During winter storm
paddling, the loss of my main paddle would be tantamount to disaster when
solo in the rougher stuff. Yes, I do carry a spare set of paddles on the
rear deck, but does anyone really think even one half could be retrieved off
the rear deck 100% of the time, while upside down?
I did dump one time in high winds/seas; yes, it is true that I was out there
on purpose, but it is entirely possible that someone could be caught in
rough stuff accidentally. I rolled so many times in the frigid waters
without success, that by the time I wet exited and surfaced and regained
composure, my paddle had separated from my kayak, with me half way between
each item. I stupidly went for the paddle, and lost my boat and means of
immediate return to land. It was a long, cold swim. I've used tether ever
since.
The 3 foot bungy line that Matt Broze describes on his web sight works well,
and does double duty as a paddle float rescue tether. Of the systems I've
experimented with, this has been my favorite. However, a couple of years
ago, North Water came out with a coiled model leash, so I had to buy the new
toy. Other versions are available from different companies, I believe. It
works well, and my slim deck bag helps absorb the clack-clack on deck. What
I don't like about the leash is that during hard maneuvers in tide rips,
eddies, etc, the velcro does not have enough circumferential bind, and the
leash refuses to stay in the middle of the shaft, as it slingshots back and
forth, hitting each hand alternatively. The guys I rough water paddle with
all use wrist tethers. They also carry them, ready to use, on the open
coast, if the wind picks up, etc.
During the Storm Island rescue in April, we had a number of occasions where
we rafted up in extremely exhausted, dehydrated states. After rehydrating
about the third time, we separated, attempting to get the bows back into the
wind. Was I ever surprised to see my paddle floating away, having come
undone due to the jostling of boats. I was able to grab the paddle and do a
half put across roll. I never mentioned this is my narrative I gave Matt for
the upcoming Sea Kayaker Magazine article, as I figured it was not too
important, and that the leash failure was a remote happening. But, as I talk
to others, I'm finding out that velcro suffers many problems when used in a
water environment under pressure. Sorry to keep bringing up this Storm
Island stuff, but it did test some of our gear to the max. Anyway, I heard
via the grape vine that Nigel Foster may be doing an article on tethers,
which should prove interesting.
2. Personal Tethers
Audrey Sutherlands decision to use a boat to person tether simply highlights
the highly inherent risks associated with solo paddling. There are a number
of long crossings on the Alaskan routes, where winds can come up well before
finishing the crossing. I also use a tether line for all long crossings. I
also use it for all high wind paddling. Though I never use one while playing
in surf or rock gardens, playing in moving water is still a dilemma,
especially where tidal effects are mixed with high wind hazards.
My article in Sea Kayaker described how I was entangled in my personal
tether line, preventing me from swimming to my back-eddy refuge. I wished I
had not put the line on that day, yet, if I had lost the kayak, it could
have been a different outcome. Unlike my previous incident, this was not a
lee shore beach situation. What's the answer? Don't paddle challenging
conditions alone? What if you are separated from your friend or buddies?
I'll continue to keep mine.
I did get rid of my old tether line after the Trial Island thing. I now
simply use my short river equipment rescue tow line, which has a bit of
slack in it. I clip it to my deck, and can undo the harness if needed with
the front buckle release. The short tow line is made from bright yellow web
strap, which I feel is far superior to rope (my previous tether line). I
also try to avoid wind/tide combinations if too rough, these days.
As an aside, I was speaking to the president of a large kayaking association
the other day, seeking his permission about an upcoming article on clubs for
Wavelegth Magazine. He mentioned he had been "following" my writings, and
said that the Trial Island story had caused him to think, "Doug sure can
spin a good yarn". You know, I really did not want to see that story
published, because it was so unbelievable -- so many things went wrong, *I*
almost think it was made up reading it from a disassociative perspective. I
did call Matt Broze about the incident. He felt it should be retold, as
there were some good lessons to be learned, even if it wasn't normal touring
kayaking.
Well, you all have better things to do than listen to my dribble...so, kept
your dogs leashed, but as far as paddles and kayaks, that's a totally
individual choice with no right or wrong.
BC'in Ya
Doug Lloyd
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 02:12:02 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jackie Fenton
Subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Tangled Up In Blue
Doug Lloyd wrote:
(SNIP) You know, I really did not want to see that story published, because
it was so unbelievable -- so many things went wrong, *I* almost think it was
made up reading it from a disassociative perspective. I did call Matt Broze
about the incident. He felt it should be retold, as there were some good
lessons to be learned, even if it wasn't normal touring kayaking. (SNIP)
I agree with Matt and appreciate your sharing your stories with us. There
are those lessons I'd much rather be learning from someone else's experience
than first-hand :-)
Thanks, Doug.
Cheers,
Jackie
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 07:38:46 -0700
From: Whitesavage & Lyle
Subject: [Paddlewise] (paddlewise) Self tethering
Sailors tether themselves to big boats. They are more likely to simply fall
overboard, but tangling is a real danger as is being dragged at speed, so
sailors use a harness, and clip to the tether with a big stainless steel
carabiner that can be removed with one hand.
It occurs to me that, rather than depending solely on a knife (which
requires a spare hand, perhaps another tangling lanyard, etc.) it might be
worthwhile to clip your tether to a slip ring on a quick release tow belt,
just like many use for towing. In fact, you are most likely to use the
tether when traveling solo, so you could stash your tow line away and
dedicate the belt to anchoring your tether. I would think the tether should
be attatched to the boat somewhere on the back deck or beside the cockpit.
You would want to do many experiments to find the least tangle-prone set-up.
The tether should allow you to wet exit either to the right or the left, and
to work your way along the boat to set up paddle floats etc. This quick
release could be important during rough landings, although I would think you
would want to detach the tether in surf zones.
I haven't tried any of this myself.
Nick Lyle
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 08:49:34 -0700
From: Whitesavage & Lyle
Subject: [Paddlewise] (paddlewise)Tow rig questions and slip rings
Dan Hagen wrote
(SNIP) "I do not paddle in high winds without my boat leash. I use two
pieces of nylon webbing (one of which is bright red) connected together in
the middle via a cam buckle. This provides a quick release. Pulling the end
of the red strap releases the buckle." (SNIP)
How do you attach the webbing to yourself? How long is the tether you use?
How and where do you attach the tether to what kind of boat?
Nick Lyle
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 09:15:36 -0700
From: Whitesavage & Lyle
Subject: [Paddlewise] Self Tethering with tow belt
Doug Lloyd,
It sounds to me like you use the tow belt to attach a personal tether to
yourself. Is this the case?
Can you describe the tether system that works best for you in detail?
What sort of quick release belt do you wear?
How long is the tether? Is the tether made of webbing? How do you attach
what kind of clip or carabiner to the webbing?
How and where do you clip the carabiner to the boat?
How is the tether joined to the belt?
How does it all work in practice?
Many thanks,
Nick Lyle
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 09:32:03 -0400
From: John Somers
Subject: [Paddlewise] making tethers
Philip Torrens wrote:
(SNIP) Most knots in bungi have a tendency to work themselves loose after
a while, though the bowline (which I know as a "bolan") sounds good. Another
possibility would be the large metal "crip-ons", similar to the small ones
used to hold rudder cables. Available at boating supply stores." (SNIP)
Another way to use bungees (bungi? :~>) is inside a tubular nylon webbing
strap. The webbing can be cut significantly longer than the bungee, then
compressed lengthwise after the bungee is inserted. Knots should envelop
smboth webbing and bungee. The nylon webbing will then hold a good knot
securely as well as providing backup strength when the bungee is stretched
to its max.
This is simpler to do than it is to describe. It's also a bit bulkier than
bare bungee. Materials are available in the US at West Marine and probably
at most recreational boat chandleries.
An alternative is to spiral-wrap simple nylon or other cord around a bungee.
Knot bungee and cord together at each end. This is a bit less bulky and uses
materials that are more readily available. Be sure to use the cord at
attachment points to boat or paddle.
Cheers, John
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 11:20:43 -0700
From: Dan Hagen
Subject: Re: [Paddlewise] boat tether
Nick Lyle wrote (regarding my boat leash):
(SNIP) How do you attach the webbing to yourself? How long is the tether
you use? How and where do you attach the tether to what kind of boat?
(SNIP)
I attach the tether to a web belt at the bottom of my "shorty" PFD, which is
about in the middle of my torso. (This works with my torso shape; some might
need a harness with a keeper strap passing under the crotch.) The other
piece of the tether attaches to a 6mm line that passes through six pad eyes
on the deck of my Caribou. The pad eyes are laid out in a parallel fashion,
three on each side. The line begins with a stopper knot (at one of the pad
eyes furthest from me), passes through the three pad eyes on one side,
across the deck in front of me, and through the three pad eyes on the other
side, ending in another stopper knot. I don't recall the exact composition
of the line, but it has a braided nylon or polyester sheath and some sort of
core material (as with climbing rope or rescue rope).
The two pieces of webbing are attached in the middle with a cam buckle,
which provides a quick release. You just need to pull the end of the strap
that passes through the buckle to release it. The advantage of a cam buckle
is that it can be released fairly easily when under tension, unlike the more
common side-clamp buckle, which is extremely difficult to release when under
tension. With my current setup the strap that one pulls to release the
tether is red, but I am planning to replace it with yellow since yellow is
easier to see when it is wet. As for length, I would estimate that it is
about three and a half feet long. (I can't measure it right now since I am
at my vacation home. If you want an exact measurement e-mail me tomorrow and
I will measure it for you.)
Happy paddling!
Dan Hagen
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 00:37:02 -0700
From: John Winskill
Subject: [Paddlewise] Another opinion on Paddle Tethers
I can't resist putting in my two bits on paddle tethers:
I hate them and have never felt the need to use one. Having said that, I
always have one wrapped around and stored on my paddle shaft. I use a piece
of 1/8 inch bungie which is three feet long. One end is simply tied to the
shaft (cuts down on weight) and the other end has a plastic clip which is
used to clip to the same bungie wrapped around the paddle and can be readily
used to unclip from said bungie and clipped onto a deck line. It is the same
design Matt Broze uses only thinner bungie. In the event of finding myself
in a situation where I feel it might be good to have one it is readily
available yet because it is so light (I use light weight graphite paddles) I
really don't notice it at all.
It's the best of both worlds. Having it handy without having the dang thing
flopping around and in the way.
John Winskill
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 18:45:22 -0400
From: Robert Woodard
Subject: RE: [Paddlewise] Tangled Up In Blue
Doug L wrote:
(SNIP) The 3 foot bungy line that Matt Broze describes on his web sight
works well, and does double duty as a paddle float rescue tether. Of the
systems (SNIP)
This is the type paddle leash I used to carry with me. I still carry it
coiled up on my deck if there is a slight chance conditions might turn bad.
I used to attach it religiously every time I went out, but found I was often
stumbling over it as I tried to enter/exit the kayak. Mine is a commercial
version with the velcro, so this talk about how poorly velcro performs when
the you know what hits the fan has me rethinking its usefulness.
I should caveat this by saying I don't normally paddle in real rough
water/conditions. Rough water to me is 15-20 MPH winds across a 3-4 mile
fetch of water (2-3 foot waves). This may not be enough to undo the velcro.
On the other hand, I've been reading with interest about tethering one's
self to the kayak. I've read here in paddlewise of folks tethering to the
boat and their tow belt. Question: why not use the tow belt rope to tether
if you are going to do that? What would be the dangers involved? Is the rope
too long?
Woody
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 20:50:38 -0400
From: Michael Daly
Subject: Re: [Paddlewise] (paddlewise) Self tethering
Whitesavage & Lyle wrote:
(SNIP) This quick release could be important during rough landings,
although I would think you would want to detach the tether in surf zones. I
haven't tried any of this myself. (SNIP)
One thing I would worry about is the nasty habit of the rescue belts not
fully releasing unless under some tension. Another is the problem of the
ring being on the back. Under a worst case scenario, you could be pulled
backwards by the wayward kayak and that's not the easiest way to deal with
the problem.
The rescue vests were designed for white water rescue and these attributes
don't result in problems in those circumstances. You're usually dealing with
a lot of tension when you _want_ it to release and you want to be harnessed
backward relative to the current if you're being pulled in.
Some other release mechanism may have merit. A front release that doesn't
need much tension to work. Hmm....
Mike
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 20:55:56 -0700
From: Whitesavage & Lyle
Subject: Re: [Paddlewise] (paddlewise) Self tethering
Sandy,
You can get a stainless steel ring like the one I use from marine supply
stores that cater to sailors. West Marine carries them and they sell through
catalogs. I am sure they have a web site. Some of the commercially available
ready made tow belt systems use the same kind of ring.
Good luck with your hurricane.
Nick Lyle
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 21:35:45 -0700
From: Whitesavage & Lyle
Subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Self tethering
(SNIP) "One thing I would worry about is the nasty habit of the rescue
belts not fully releasing unless under some tension. Another is the problem
of the ring being on the back. (SNIP)
You have a point. I would love to hear if anyone out there has used this
method of self tethering. What are the alternatives, aside from the Audrey
Sutherland loop method?
On the other hand, my tow belt/pfd combination allows the slip ring to slide
around to the side and it releases very easily, and it would not be hard to
clear without tension. The dive belt and stainless weight belt buckle that I
use for a towbelt is more robust and positive in it's action than some of
the commercial towbelts I have seen. In particular, the belt is a fairly
thick and stiff type of webbing, not the more supple tubular webbing some
belts are made of. When you are using the towbelt to tow with you are being
pulled from behind. I am not sure that this is worse than being towed from
in front. I am supple enough to get at things that are behind my back. I'd
like to keep the tether out of my way when paddling, rolling and wet
exiting. I would want to keep the system simple. I don't know, I will have
to try it to know.
How do others join their tethers to their bodies?
Nick Lyle
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 22:22:02 +0200
From: Hal Christiansen
Subject: RE: [Paddlewise] boat tether
Hej Dan,
A couple of questions from a rookie..
Where do you position the quick release? In the center, near your waist, or
near the end farther from yourself.... ?
Also do you let the slack lie loose on your spray skirt?
I was thinking an elastic band with the webbing folded under would allow it
to pull out under any strain while remaining neatly tucked away when not in
use?
Anyway, thanks for sharing :-)
Hal
Date: den 13 september 1999 20:21
From: Dan Hagen
Subject: Re: [Paddlewise] boat tether
Nick Lyle wrote (regarding my boat leash):
(SNIP) How do you attach the webbing to yourself? How long is the tether
you use? How and where do you attach the tether to what kind of boat?
(SNIP)
I attach the tether to a web belt at the bottom of my "shorty" PFD, which is
about in the middle of my torso. (This works with my torso shape; some might
need a harness with a keeper strap passing under the crotch.) The other
piece of the tether attaches to a 6mm line that passes through six pad eyes
on the deck of my Caribou. The pad eyes are laid out in a parallel fashion,
three on each side. The line begins with a stopper knot (at one of the pad
eyes furthest from me), passes through the three pad eyes on one side,
across the deck in front of me, and through the three pad eyes on the other
side, ending in another stopper knot. I don't recall the exact composition
of the line, but it has a braided nylon or polyester sheath and some sort of
core material (as with climbing rope or rescue rope).
The two pieces of webbing are attached in the middle with a cam buckle,
which provides a quick release. You just need to pull the end of the strap
that passes through the buckle to release it. The advantage of a cam buckle
is that it can be released fairly easily when under tension, unlike the more
common side-clamp buckle, which is extremely difficult to release when under
tension. With my current setup the strap that one pulls to release the
tether is red, but I am planning to replace it with yellow since yellow is
easier to see when it is wet. As for length, I would estimate that it is
about three and a half feet long. (I can't measure it right now since I am
at my vacation home. If you want an exact measurement e-mail me tomorrow and
I will measure it for you.)
Happy paddling!
Dan Hagen
From: Dan Hagen
Subject: Re: [Paddlewise] boat tether
Hal Christiansen wrote:
(SNIP) Where do you position the quick release? In the center, near your
waist, or near the end farther from yourself.... ? (SNIP)
About 10 in. (25 cm) from my torso.
(SNIP) Also do you let the slack lie loose on your spray skirt? (SNIP)
Yes, although some of the slack can be tucked under a deck bungie.
(SNIP) I was thinking and elastic band with the webbing folded under would
allow it to pull out under any strain while remaining neatly tucked away
when not in use? (SNIP)
That seems like a good idea. Maybe I will give it a try.
Ingen årsak!
Dan
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 19:56:23 +1000
From: Peter Osman
Subject: [Paddlewise] Tangled Up In Blue, Self Rescue in Kleppers & velcro
Doug Lloyd wrote
(SNIP) Was I ever surprised to see my paddle floating away, having come
undone due to the jostling of boats. I was able to grab the paddle and do. .
. .(SNIP)
G'Day
Thanks more than I can say for the personal tethering discussion and
experiences. For the last year I've had the impression that personal
tethering was undesirable and none of the books I've read discuss the
subject. The Paddlewise debate has given me a more balanced view. Doug',
regarding the details in your story (which I much appreciated). Do you
remember how the velcro fastening which failed was made, was it a single or
multiple strip fastening? Does anyone have any feel for how much load such
tethers must take? - I'ld guess the maximum would be full body weight
falling through a metre during a second or two?
Velcro fastenings seem to be regarded with suspicion. Maybe like knots, they
can be good or bad? The paddling gloves I once used were fastened with
velcro and were hopeless. Fell apart in water as soon as you looked at them.
My Klepper spray deck is fastened to the coaming with velcro and it's worked
for a year very well, but mostly under light sea conditions. The personal
and paddle tethers I use are made for surfboards and are fastened by
sandwiching 3 separate strips of velcro together. They seem very secure. The
paddle tether has the velcro fastened around the paddle shaft above the drip
ring so it doesn't drive me nuts and the loop is fastened to a deck ring. It
has survived about 400km of paddling with no problem and seems fine. I tried
the personal tether with the velcro loop around my wrist. This allowed it to
be short and with less risk of tangling. But, it's occurred to me this might
sprain or break a wrist. I've fitted another D ring to my belt and will test
again with that. Have decided not to fit a quick release to my personal
tether fearing that it will too easily release unintentionally.
The Klepper has gone in for its 500km service, oil and lube so can't test
anything at the moment.
All the best, PeterO
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 08:34:45 -0700
rdiaz@ix.netcom.com
Subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Tangled Up In Blue & Solo Paddling
Robert Woodard wrote:
(SNIP) This is the type paddle leash I used to carry with me. I still carry
it coiled up on my deck if there is a slight chance conditions might turn
bad. I used to attach it religiously every time I went out, but found I was
often stumbling over it as I tried to enter/exit the kayak. Mine is a
commercial version with the velcro, so this talk about how poorly velcro
performs when the you know what hits the fan has me rethinking its
usefulness.(SNIP)
I have read with great interest how some paddlers have the paddle tether
handy but don't employ it. I tend to use my paddle leash (connected to a
deck D-ring) all of the time, mainly because I do paddle solo a lot and fear
losing my paddle. It resides on my paddle and weighs next to nothing and
does not get in the way in any way.
It is hardly ever not connected. For example, if I am launching from a dock,
the paddle is tethered to the D-ring before I get; the paddle rests on the
dock parallel to my boat's direction and enough away from the cockpit not to
get in my way. I tend hardly ever to use the paddle behind my back routine
for entering my boat. The paddle on the dock laid parallel to my boat's
direction acts as a dock fixture to provide extra insurance that my boat
won't quickly slip out from under me as I enter; i.e. if I am not getting in
well and need to get back up on the dock to adjust myself better, my boat
won't stray. I do the same when exiting the boat, most of the time.
All of this depends on the height of the dock and how much it is bouncing
with wakes and wind waves. You haven't lived until you have tried scampering
up on a two foot high dock that is bucking like a sea serpent!
Ralph
------------------------------------------------
Ralph Diaz . . . Folding Kayaker newsletter
PO Box 0754, New York, NY 10024
Tel: 212-724-5069; E-mail: rdiaz@ix.netcom.com
"Where's your sea kayak?"----"It's in the bag."
------------------------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14
Sep 1999 10:01:08 -0500
From: Chuck Holst
Subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Another opinion on Padd
(SNIP) I can't resist putting in my two bits on paddle tethers: I hate
them and have never felt the need to use one. (SNIP)
The alternative to a paddle tether is to have an accessible spare paddle. I
don't use a tether on my Greenland paddle, because it would interfere with
my sliding technique. However, I carry a Greenland storm paddle as a spare
on my foredeck, where it is accessible should I lose my main paddle. Because
it is a one-piece paddle, no assembly is required, and I find it very easy
to grab when capsized and roll up with.
Does anyone else on this list who uses a Greenland paddle tether it?
Chuck Holst
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 08:37:15 PDT
From: Philip Torrens
Subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Tangled Up In Blue, Self Rescue in Kleppers &
velcro
Peter Osman wrote:
(SNIP) velcro fastenings seem to be regarded with suspicion. Maybe like
knots, they can be good or bad? (SNIP)
Right you are Peter, the problem of good and bad Velcro has puzzled Catholic
theologians for centuries. Seriously, though we use the term Velcro for any
"hook and loop fastener" (the proper generic term), Velcro is in fact a
brand name, and was the original (the Swiss boffin who invented it is said
to have been inspired by various plants whose seed pods hook onto the fur of
animals for wider distribution.)Anyway, like any other product, what's
available varies widely in quality, durability, and gripping power.
Reputable manufacturers (Klepper etc.) are undoubtedly careful to source
only quality stuff, probably actual Velcro, rather than one of the numerous
knock-offs now on the market. How can you tell the good from the bad? Simply
test it as you did the gloves. If you're buying your own to use in home
projects, test the male and female halves in the store to see how strongly
they resist being torn assunder from side-to-side and vertically.
Happy sticking.
Philip Torrens
N49°16' W123°06'
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 09:07:13 -0700
From: Whitesavage & Lyle
Subject: [Paddlewise] Tethers, hydraulic forces
Peter Osman wrote:
(SNIP) "Does anyone have any feel for how much load such tethers must
take?" (SNIP)
In the case of paddle tethers it must take whatever load the paddle itself
can take.
With either paddle or personal tethers the loads will equal whatever force
is required to suddenly accelerate the mass of your body, moving against
water resistance, pulled by a lunging object weighing 100 to 200 pounds (for
a loaded single). The lunging kayak could have hundreds of pounds of water
pressure acting on it. Because of the hammer-blow like nature of the forces
that might act on this tether if you and your boat are thrown in different
directions I would make a wild guess at thousands of pounds of force
(momentarily). I would not be surprised if the forces involved can be
similar to the forces involved in leader falls. Certainly it would not be
overdoing it to use gear as strong as climbers use to make a personal
tether. Sailors, expecting to be dragged through the water by a multi-ton
boat, use very strong tethers. This kind of tether could snap a light paddle
shaft in half easily.
Does this sound right to someone who knows more specifics about the physics
of this problem?
Nick Lyle
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 15:41:08 EDT
From: Harold HTERVORT
Subject: Re: [Paddlewise] boat tether
I have been thinking for some time about boat tethers. I have tied onto the
boat at times when I found reason to get out and spend time in the water,
but have never used one on a continual basis.
One idea that appealed to me was that of attaching the grab loop of the
spray skirt to a biner clipped onto the front painter, using a nylon strap
which is wide enough to avoid tangling and a side-release buckle at the grab
loop for a quick-release. The presumed advantages are: 1. It would not
interfere with a forward-roll wet exit; 2. The strap could be easily folded
and stored on the front deck, where it would be easy to manage; 3. In the
water, the pull would turn the swimmer toward the boat; 4. In the event of a
strong pull from the boat, the skirt would spread the force over a large
portion of your body; 5. As the boat drifts downwind / downwave, the biner
would slide along the painter to the bow of the boat, turning the swimmer's
back to the waves and the bow into them, decreasing drift and pull against
the swimmer and allowing the swimmer to tow the boat with a strong
backstroke; 6. Its presence would discourage placing the grabloop inside the
skirt when the going gets tense.
I would appreciate all your thoughts on this.
Thanks
Harold
Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1999 07:48:22 +1000
From: Peter Osman
Subject: [Paddlewise] Tethers, hydraulic forces
Nick Lyle wrote
(SNIP) With either paddle or personal tethers the loads will equal
whatever force is required to suddenly accelerate the mass of your body,
moving against water resistance, pulled by a lunging object weighing 100 to
200 pounds (for a loaded single). The lunging kayak could have hundreds of
pounds of water pressure acting on it. (SNIP)
Thanks Nick. I'ld have to say that the Velcro loop on my surfboard tether
would be unlikely to stand up to the forces you describe and my wrist
certainly wouldn't. I tried to visualise a worst case based on your post. So
if the paddler is behind a cresting wave and the kayak is falling down the
front of the wave then its a balance between drag on the paddler vs a 200lb
kayak sliding maybe 2 metres through water, under gravity, at say 45
degrees. I've ignored the water pressure because surely this would act on
both paddler and kayak. Can anyone visualise a more realistic worst case?
Does anyone have figures for the hydraulic drag on paddlers or kayaks? Would
a drogue be a reasonable model for the drag on a paddler?
All the best, PeterO
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 17:51:41 -0400
From: Robert Woodard
Subject: RE: [Paddlewise] Tangled Up In Blue & Solo Paddling
Ralph Diaz wrote:
(SNIP) I have read with great interest how some paddlers have the paddle
tether handy but don't employ it. I tend to use my paddle leash (connected
to a deck D-ring) all of the time, mainly because I do paddle solo a lot and
fear losing my paddle. It resides on my paddle and weighs next to nothing
and does not get in the way in any way. (SNIP)
Interesting stuff Ralph. I would have thought getting in/out from a dock
would be much more likely to tangle into a leash than getting in/out from
shore. But somehow, I've managed to trip over or get tangled in my leash too
many times to admit to.
Of course, the prudent thing for me would be to just remove it as I come
close to shore. I also paddle with a Greenland stick and like Chuck, find
the paddle leash does interfere with paddling, especially extended paddle
strokes. On the other hand, when I really like to be able to just lay the
paddle in the water while doing something else and not have to worry about
it floating away.
I also think you're more likely to paddle in rougher conditions than I do.
I'm more likely to tether my paddle when paddling, say, the Chesapeake Bay
than the upper Potomac river (which is 80% of my paddling). That's not to
say I wouldn't be more likely than you to loose a paddle (I have once or
twice), but that the conditions would be a bit more favorable for me to
recover it by paddling with my hands or just grabbing half the spare on my
rear deck to go get it.
After tripping over the blasted thing for about the third time getting out
of the boat, I pretty much quite using it unless heading out in rougher
conditions.
How about those tethers what attach to your PFD? I've seen several people
use those and it seems to eliminate the tangling when getting in/out, and I
think it would be easier just to unclip it from your PFD once you get out.
Any hazard that I'm not thinking about?
One final thought: My greatest fear is losing the kayak rather than the
paddle. The boat has a spare paddle on the back deck, but I don't have a
spare kayak if I get separated from it. That is why my interest in tethering
oneself to the kayak. Up until this thread started I just *assumed* it was a
very bad thing to do. I've practiced trying to get the kayak back after
intentionally losing it (this wasn't one of my solo trips 8^). In light
winds or mild current it is very hard to catch up to the kayak. I've even
experimented with "paddling" with my paddle to try and catch up to the boat
(a little faster than swimming, but *very* strenuous and I could only do it
for a short length of time). But again, it didn't take much wind for the
kayak to out run me. In practice I found the best thing was to immediately
go after the kayak. Drop the paddle if you're holding on to it, you can
probably swim for it much easier than the boat, so only go for it after you
get the kayak back. The paddle will slow you down if you try to hold on to
it while chasing the boat. Of course, you have to worry only about the boat
if your paddle is tethered to it.
Anyhow, that is from my limited experimentation. I'd like to read your
thoughts on getting separated from the kayak.
Woody
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 17:55:16 -0400
From: Robert Woodard
Subject: RE: [Paddlewise] Another opinion on Padd
(SNIP) Does anyone else on this list who uses a Greenland paddle tether it?
(SNIP)
As I just mentioned to Ralph, I sometimes do. Only in rougher conditions any
more. I too find it interferes with my paddling, and really don't want to
have to think about where the line is when rolling or risk it causing me to
blow a roll.
I've been giving a lot of thought to doing away with my 2 piece spare and
building a storm paddle. My question: I've seen several kayaks that look
like they were built to park a greenland or storm paddle on the front deck
(the webbing and/or bungy works out just right). Is this planned or added
after purchase? If added, what are some of the better methods to park your
paddle on the front deck?
Woody
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 16:29:40 +0000
From: Mark Zen
Subject: RE: [Paddlewise] Tangled Up In Blue & Solo Paddling
Robert Woodard wrote:
(SNIP) One final thought: My greatest fear is losing the kayak rather than
the paddle. The boat has a spare paddle on the back deck, but I don't have a
spare kayak if I get separated from it. That is why my interest in tethering
oneself to the kayak. (SNIP)
from my very limited experience in sea kayaks... in a canoe, if you turn it
[the boat] upside down, nothing should hang below the gunwales... i have
only seen people leash their paddle to their boat, feeling they might let go
of the boat, but since the paddle was in their hands, they did not have to
THINK, they just held tight. the less people have to THINK when doo doo
hits...
mark
http://www.diac.com/~zen/paddler [index of Paddling websites I manage]
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 19:51:53 -0400
From: Peg Lang
Subject: [Paddlewise] velcro and paddles
On my first solo paddle a few weeks ago, I used the Velcro fastened bungie
cord on my paddle. When it was time to pack up, I started dragging the boat
up the beach to the car. After a few steps it just seemed the chore just got
more and more difficult. I turned around and looked. The paddle had fallen
out of the boat and had dug into the sand on the beach as I had pulled the
boat up the beach. The Velcro never let go. The bungie held. It was like a
sling shot. I think it will serve me well when used for its original
purpose.
Peg
California MD
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 19:51:53 -0400
rdiaz@ix.netcom.com
Subject: Re: [Paddlewise] velcro and paddles
Peg Lang wrote:
(SNIP) On my first solo paddle a few weeks ago (SNIP)
I think that some of the problem with velcro is its size and type. There is
such a thing as marine-grade velcro, which I understand holds better when
wet. It is used for example in the overflap of the Folbot folding kayak
double and single over the deck zippers incorporated in each. That is it can
get wet and still stick. My assumption is that some velcroes will not hold
as well when wet. In your situation the velcro remained dry and held.
ralph diaz
-----------------------------------------------
Ralph Diaz . . . Folding Kayaker newsletter
PO Box 0754, New York, NY 10024
Tel: 212-724-5069; E-mail: rdiaz@ix.netcom.com
"Where's your sea kayak?"----"It's in the bag."
-----------------------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 22:24:09 -0700
rdiaz@ix.netcom.com
Subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Tangled Up In Blue & Solo Paddling
(SNIP) I would have thought getting in/out from a dock would be much more
likely to tangle into a leash than getting in/out from shore. SNIP)
No actually, a paddle leash holding the paddle on the dock is a nice
semi-tieup for your boat as you enter or exit it. But you can't use your
paddle as a crutch behind you to help get into the boat. That technique,
paddle behind you is a paddle killer.
(SNIP) Of course, the prudent thing for me would be to just remove it as I
come close to shore. I also paddle with a Greenland stick and like Chuck,
find the paddle leash does interfere with paddling, especially extended
paddle strokes. On the other hand, when I really like to be able to just lay
the paddle in the water while doing something else and not have to worry
about it floating away. (SNIP)
Go Euro, not Greenland. Leave the latter for the natives and wannabes. :-)
(SNIP) I also think you're more likely to paddle in rougher conditions
than I do. I'm more likely to tether my paddle when paddling, say, the
Chesapeake Bay than the upper Potomac river (which is 80% of my paddling).
That's not to say I wouldn't be more likely than you to loose a paddle (I
have once or twice), but that the conditions would be a bit more favorable
for me to recover it by paddling with my hands or just grabbing half the
spare on my rear deck to go get it. (SNIP)
I am a worry-wort and rather have the thing tied on always. You never know
when it may slip away from you and not be so accessible to you. More
importantly, if you were to go over and had the good sense to hang on to
your paddle, you also will have your boat.
(SNIP) After tripping over the blasted thing for about the third time
getting out of the boat, I pretty much quite using it unless heading out in
rougher conditions. (SNIP)
It depends on the boat. Some are easier to exit than others and the paddle
leash will not get in the way in them.
(SNIP) How about those tethers what attach to your PFD? I've seen several
people use those and it seems to eliminate the tangling when getting in/out,
and I think it would be easier just to unclip it from your PFD once you get
out. Any hazard that I'm not thinking about? (SNIP)
Like those that attach to your wrist, the tether to PFD may leave you one
day without a boat. The tether of paddle with boat makes certain that if you
can hang on to one or the other you also have the other.
(SNIP) One final thought: My greatest fear is losing the kayak rather than
the paddle. (SNIP)
Yeah, I had not thought of tethering oneself to one's boat. This string of
postings has been an eyeopener in how many respected paddlers tether them
selves to their boats.
ralph diaz
-----------------------------------------------
Ralph Diaz . . . Folding Kayaker newsletter
PO Box 0754, New York, NY 10024
Tel: 212-724-5069; E-mail: rdiaz@ix.netcom.com
"Where's your sea kayak?"----"It's in the bag."
-----------------------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 21:29:46 -0700
From: Dave Kruger
Subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Tethers, hydraulic forces
Whitesavage & Lyle wrote:
(SNIP) With either paddle or personal tethers the loads will equal whatever
force is required to suddenly accelerate the mass of your body (SNIP)
Well, yes and no. In a leader fall, the climber will have fallen a distance
twice the distance from the last point of protection to the climber before
he/she falls, before the rope begins to arrest his/her descent. Because
modern climbing ropes elongate as they are loaded, the total energy of the
falling climber is dissipated over quite a bit of rope elongation. This has
the effect of reducing the peak forces generated in the system, a feature
older ropes (Goldline, manila, etc.) did not have. There is nothing
comparable to this amount of energy (the falling climber) in a yakker-paddle
boat system under the likely scenarios sea kayakers would encounter in water
(excluding big surf).
If you used a modern climbing rope as part of the leash system, it would
perform similarly to help reduce the peak forces. In addition, if you are in
a water environment, and your body is *not fixed* (anchored) to something
solid, then your body will respond to the tug of a leash by moving, thus
spreading out the dissipation of the energy of the (moving) boat over more
time, and making the peak forces much less than those in a leader fall, in
which the belayer's end of the rope is "anchored" through a belaying device.
("Anchored" except in the sense that the belaying device is designed to
allow more rope to slide through it when the force reaches a specified
figure, Making the belayer's end of the rope *not* rigidly anchored.)
Nick, I suspect "thousands of pounds of force" is probably way too high an
estimate even for the force generated in a worst-case "over the falls"
scenario for a surf kayaker, because there is nothing rigid to "anchor" the
yak or the paddler to, and the kayaker can only fall a few feet. Is "over
the falls" the scenario you are envisioning, or do you have something else
in mind?
In any event, I believe it is widely agreed that leashes on kayaks used in
**big** surf constitute a death wish (by entrapment or strangulation), and
that leashes in even moderate to small surf are a very bad idea, *for
kayakers.* Board surfers, of course, use bungie systems on their ankles in
big surf, and do OK, because the dynamics of the surfer-bungie-board system
are much different than the dynamics of a kayak-bungie-paddler system.
I believe most of us are concerned with the forces generated if we capsize
in a tide rip or in gnarly wind waves. Under these conditions, the
yakker-paddle-boat system will not generate anything like the forces in a
climbing rope in a leader fall. Mainly, we are dealing with the forces when
somebody capsizes or falls out of the boat. This is because the yak is never
moving faster than a few knots, and the yakker falls only a foot or two into
the water, so falling overboard can not generate huge forces, unlike with
the falling climber, who might be travelling 50 - 60 mph (!!) in a leader
fall before the climbing rope begins to arrest his/her fall.
Finally, a bungie or "telephone cord" leash, such as those discussed for a
tether or paddle leash, will elongate lots at very low load (way less than a
hundred pounds of tension), further reducing the peak force. OTOH, if a
leash of wire cable is used, all bets are off -- wire does not elongate.
Dave Kruger
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 22:03:50 -0700
From: Matt Broze
Subject: [Paddlewise] Paddle Leash
I tried out Ralph's "jetski kill switch" paddle tether Sunday on a 20+ mile
paddle from Anacortes to Friday Harbor on San Juan Island. I worked well and
it didn't have any of the downsides that the heavier telephone style leashes
I had seen before did. Mainly, it wasn't heavy, it didn't clack on the deck,
and it didn't tangle. I tugged pretty hard on the plastic hook end and it
didn't break. I was a little concerned as to how well the shaft on my
ultralightweight graphite paddle would fair if I yanked real hard and fast
with both hands on my paddle so I refrained from trying that just yet. I'll
try it on a blue pole-vaulting company glass paddle shaft to see if the loop
will hold together (once I find one with a big enough loop to fit over that
shaft--of course the alternative is to just tie it on to the shaft with some
nylon parachute cord wrapped several times around the shaft--this might
protect the shaft and let one use kill switch cords with "too small"
loops)..
Right now the Jet Ski kill switch strap looks to be the equal of my present
3/16" shock cord and shock cord clip leash in every way except price. $6.99
vs. $1.69 (in materials and tying a couple of knots).
Matt Broze
http://www.marinerkayaks.com
Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1999 16:04:34 +1000
From: Nick Gill
Subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Tethers, hydraulic forces
i've used the same paddle leash for 8 years. A coiled one of the type widely
available from surf shops. has a fairly wide double velcro closure which has
never failed even in trashings in big surf. It's very secure and the velcro
sticks fast - maybe its the 'marine' version someone mentioned. it can be
done up tightly enough so that it doesn't slide on the shaft (once my paddle
was snapped by a big wave and the half tethered stayed tethered for the
short time before I got to it). it does the job well, although it does go
'clack'.
just connect leash to boat, leave it there and always attach paddle and you
never have a problem of paddle/boat separation at sea. also if the paddle is
always leashed one can drop the paddle at any time to do things quickly.
Simple.
When it finally wears out I'll probably make one from shock cord and an
olive cleat (to secure to shaft). such a leash, as has been pointed out, is
cheap and can be made in minutes from bits and pieces. Olive cleats are one
of the world's great marine inventions, We use them to secure stuff such as
deck bags, spare paddles etc to our decks - we've never seen them fail.
I do keep the leash on in the surf . I've never had, nor seen, a problem
with entanglement but have been glad of a tethered paddle when I've had to
exit or lost my grip on the paddle.
Does anyone have experience of entanglement?
re the tow rope discussion - some of the examples seem a bit complicated and
unnecessarily bitsy. Simple is good in this department I reckon
nick
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 23:05:44 -0700
From: Dan Hagen
Subject: Re: [Paddlewise] boat tether
Harold wrote:
(SNIP) One idea that appealed to me was that of attaching the grab loop of
the spray skirt to a biner clipped onto the front painter, using a nylon
strap which is wide enough to avoid tangling and a side-release buckle at
the grab loop for a quick-release. The presumed advantages are: (SNIP)
This is an interesting idea. The potential drawbacks I see are: (1) The
length of the tether. It would seem to me that using the bow painter as the
tether increases the possibility of a nasty entanglement. That's a lot of
line floating around with you in the water. (2) The use of a side-release
buckle. These do not release well when under tension. (See my earlier
comments on this.) On the other hand, as you noted your idea does have some
advantages.
Dan Hagen
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 23:17:40 -0700
From: Dan Hagen
Subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Paddle Leash
Matt Broze wrote:
(BIG SNIP) Right now the Jet Ski kill switch strap looks to be the equal
of my present 3/16" shock cord and shock cord clip leash in every way except
price. $6.99 vs. $1.69 (in materials and tying a couple of knots). (SNIP)
I also use 3/16" shock cord for my paddle leash. Great stuff. Very light,
and it comes in pretty colors. :-) But I use a much shorter piece (3' or so)
running from the paddle shaft to a loop around my wrist. (I use a separate
boat tether to provide a connection from my body to the boat.) The slack in
the leash is wrapped loosely around the paddle when paddling. The slack is
necessary so that I can set the paddle down and use my tethered hand without
it yanking the paddle about. The wrist loop I use is sized so that if my
hand is relaxed (or clenched) it will not pull out of the loop, but if I
scrunch up my hand it will slip free. Of course I remove the leash in the
surf.
Dan Hagen
Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1999 00:39:25 -0700
From: Doug Lloyd
Subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Tangled Up In Blue, Self Rescue in Kleppers &
velcro
Peter Osman asks Doug Lloyd:
(SNIP>>The Paddlewise debate has given me a more balanced view. Doug',
regarding the details in your story (which I much appreciated). Do you
remember how the velcro fastening which failed was made, was it a single
or . . . . (SNIP)
Peter my good man,
I have found out since my post that the velcro arrangement has been modified
on the new leashes by North Water. It was a single wrap around. As far as I
know, it was a good quality Velcro, but repeated use had worn the female
side out (no comments from Deb please). I am a fan of paddle leashes, so was
hesitant to mention the failure, fearing people might shy away. I've put
that leash through hell over the last year or two, including big hydraulics
and silly beach drags where the paddle sans leash was dragged under the boat
-- it never failed. The situation on the Storm Island crossing may have been
due to something on one of the boats catching the release pull tap, and
releasing it prematurely, I'm not sure though as some details are too foggy
-- we really were having a hard time with equipment, and cold/exhaustion
induced brain-deadness. But, I still maintain that Velcro fastenings need
some observation, no matter what the application, to ensure security of
equipment where this is important.
BTW, "Tangled up in blue" is a song by Bob Dylan. Two refrains go: "We just
saw it from different points of view, Tangled up in blue." "Lord knows I've
paid my dues, Tangled up in blue."
Thought that about said it all with respect to opinions on tethers - and my
adventures in the deep blue ocean with boat and paddle tethers.
BC'in Ya
Doug Lloyd
Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1999 00:36:43 -0700
From: Matt Broze
Subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Tethers, hydraulic forces
Nick Gill wrote
(SNIP) when it finally wears out I'll probably make one from shock cord
and an olive cleat (to secure to shaft). such a leash , as has been pointed
out, is cheap and can be made in minutes from bits and pieces. Olive cleats
are one of the world's great marine inventions, We use them to secure stuff
such as deck bags, spare paddles etc to our decks - we've never seen them
fail. (SNIP)
What is an olive cleat?
(SNIP) I do keep the leash on in the surf . I've never had, nor seen, a
problem with entanglement but have been glad of a tethered paddle when I've
had to exit or lost my grip on the paddle. Does anyone have experience of
entanglement? (SNIP)
I know of one case of a paddler going out through surf with a cord type
leash attached. She was pummeled and while trying to exit the kayak got one
thigh strapped fast to the outside of the kayak (I'd guess the kayak was
tumbling but the paddle acted more like a sea anchor so the cord wrapped
around the kayak and was cinched up tight. She and the kayak tumbled into
shore together and she had one heck of a bruise on her thigh as the result.
I reported on this in an early edition of Sea Kayaker.
Oh, let me add my me too to Dave Krugers analysis of the forces involved and
the warning to untether in surf (or while trying to land in a hurry).
I have my leash on the paddle but only attach it to the kayak if the wind
might blow the kayak away faster than I could swim after it. And I carry a
spare where one could come in handy but not usually if I'm just out on the
local in city lake.
Matt Broze
http://www.marinerkayaks.com
Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1999 08:36:21 -0700
rdiaz@ix.netcom.com
Subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Paddle Leash
Matt Broze wrote:
(SNIP) I tried out Ralph's "jetski kill switch" paddle tether Sunday.
Right now the Jet Ski kill switch strap looks to be the equal of my present
3/16" shock cord and shock cord clip leash in every way except price. $6.99
vs. $1.69 (in materials and tying a couple of knots). (SNIP)
I suspect the jet ski one (does anyone else appreciate the irony of our
using something from a camp generally despised by kayakers! It is not the
only good such device. I covered others in my newsletter including tow line,
dock lines, and several anchors...virtual of all of their gear is that it is
lightweight, marine grade and generally covered in vinyl to avoid scratching
up their shiny machines) will hold up to the tug test better than any of the
velcro strapped type with bungee tethers, but would fail at some supreme
test level.
What Matt failed to mention is the aesthetics of these jet ski tethers. They
come in wonderful day-glo colors...orange, yellow, green. They are kinda
pretty dangling from you paddle and add to your being visible(well maybe I
am stretching this a bit :-)
If you go this route here are some things you should know and ways of
getting around some of the fitting to paddle situation:
The kill switch tethers have a plastic hook on one end that is certainly as
tough as that in the Perception bungee tether but with a wider gate so it
can go around fatter fastening spots (heavy deck line, beefy D-rings) and
disengage quickly. I always found the Perception plastic hook too tight even
on the moderate size D rings used by Feathercraft and hard to disengage when
I was in a hurry to unhook the tether from my boat. This hook is in a loop.
The other end has a plastic device in 3 varieties that is meant to match up
with the kill switch key of different makes of jet skies. It is also in a
loop. I found that the one for Sea-Doos works best.
BUT here is the important point: The loops have been made with no particular
uniformity as they are only meant to hold the key or snaphook. The
manufacturer was not thinking that some creative, ever-inquisitive nut like
me would want to use one loop end to insert his paddle shaft into (need a
takeapart paddle to do this). My first one of the jet ski tethers had a loop
that fit perfectly around my paddle even with the kill switch key still on.
There was absolutely none of that annoying sliding I have found with either
home made or factory made paddle tethers before. When I bought several other
of the jet ski tethers to leave on two other paddles that I use, the loops
were a bit too small. Here are the remedies:
If you can and are buying the jet ski tethers in a store (West
Marine), look at the blister packages and select the one that seems to have
the largest loop.
If you can't or are buying via catalog, you can do several things if
the loop is too small to fit on your paddle shaft.
First, clip off the kill switch key. It is made of polycarbonate but it can
be cut easily with a pair of garden pruning scissors or any heavy duty
scissors. That may make the loop work.
Two, see if the loop on the other end that holds the snap hook is big
enough. You can then switch the hook to the kill switch key end and run your
paddle through the loop that originally held the snap hook. Matt, creative
and ever-inquisitive person that he is did that with his. So did I with one
of my jet ski leashes.
Lastly, and this is last resort stuff and least desirable solution: open up
the loop. I had to do that with one of my leashes. It is easy to do. Slip
down the cover that is over the base of the loop. You will see that the loop
has been created by running the leash line back on itself and applying a
multi-toothed clamp to hold it in place to form the loop. I opened this up
with a screw driver and then clamped it back down with pliers. I think it
will hold okay but probably not as well as the factory applied clamp.
For the also creative, ever-inquisitive among you who want to go this route,
the West Marine order number is 310088, SeaDoo PFD PWC Tether cord. You
could also try the other brands of jet ski kill key ones, but go for the
ones that attach to PFD not the ones for the wrist. Yamaha 331357, Kawasaki
33165.
Hmm, the wrist attachment ones...I wonder if something can be done with them
around a kayak!?!?!
BTW, do look at the pages of the West Marine catalog on which these tethers
appear. You will see all sorts of nifty anchors, dock lines etc. that would
work well on a kayak. For example they have a nice 20 foot tow line that is
meant for one jetskier to tow another. So it is a tough line...it originally
came with plastic nylon hooks which are plenty tough but recently they
switched to metal carabiner hooks.
Another BTW, it is always worthwhile to look at gear from other endeavors
for possible cross-over use in kayaking. There is an old principle that
comes from my competitive intelligence days which states that you can often
find info on a competitor by locating other information gatherers
(especially in the public field) who might need similar information. The
corollary of this for kayakers is "who else needs to use equipment similar
to our needs?" Gear for jet skiers operating in a marine environment is a
logical place to look.
ralph diaz
-----------------------------------------------
Ralph Diaz . . . Folding Kayaker newsletter
PO Box 0754, New York, NY 10024
Tel: 212-724-5069; E-mail: rdiaz@ix.netcom.com
"Where's your sea kayak?"----"It's in the bag."
-----------------------------------------------
Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1999 10:11:05 -0700
From: Whitesavage & Lyle
Subject: [Paddlewise] Tethers, forces, skirts, tow hitch under boat
A disadvantage of the SPRAY SKIRT AS TETHER idea is that you might rip your
skirt or damage it's elastic just when you really need a good spray skirt.
It seems to me that TOWING FROM A POINT UNDER THE KAYAK would certainly
tangle, or even break, the rudder when the towed boat rose higher than the
tow boat due to wave action.
(SNIP)" There is nothing comparable to this amount of energy (the falling
climber) in a yakker-paddle boat system under the likely scenarios sea
kayakers would encounter in water(excluding big surf)." (SNIP)
TRUE, I admit that my extreme case scenario would involve big surf, and in
big surf you would want to disconnect your personal tether. A lot of people
disconnect paddle-to-boat tethers in surf also, fearing entanglement. It
occurs to me that it is not that unlikely that a solo paddler might be still
connected to their boat by a personal tether when caught by a surprise
boomer. In this sort of instant surf a lot of force could act on the tether
(I know it sounds far fetched, but I am continually surprised by the power
of hydraulics).
(SNIP) If you used a modern climbing rope as part of the leash system, it
would perform similarly to help reduce the peak forces." (SNIP)
This is NOT strictly true. The stretch in a climbing rope is proportionate
to the length of the rope, so the very short length that I imagine would be
appropriate (to reduce chance of tangles) in the tether would not stretch
anywhere near as much as the length of rope involved in a typical belay
setup. A smaller diameter nylon rope tether might be called for to make a
shock absorbing tether.
(SNIP) Nick, I suspect "thousands of pounds of force" is probably way too
high an estimate even for the force generated in a worst-case "over the
falls" scenario for a surf kayaker" (SNIP)
You might be right. But I based my wild estimate on the MOMENTARY forces
assuming that the boat and boater were moving in opposite directions. I am a
blacksmith, and in using both hand and power hammers I recieve continual
reminders of the way forces can spike to very high levels when objects of
even relatively low mass change direction in an instant. You are right when
you point out that the belay anchor (and my Anvil) are the proverbial
immovable object, whereas the kayaker in water can be moved. Nevertheless,
the momentum of a 200 pound kayaker moving the other way from the kayak will
cause a spike in the forces involved at the moment the tether becomes
taught. If this spike multiplied the forces involved, momentarily, to ten
times the mass of the kayaker then you have "thousands" of pounds. I am not
a physicist, so my estimate is just a wild guess, but I do know that a
runaway kayak will hit you pretty hard. Also, I was postulating a short
tether, without the stretch of a longer length of climbing rope, and without
the dynamic belay (when the rope slides through the belay device). The
stretchy rope and the dynamic belay GREATLY reduce the spike in forces when
the rope comes taught in a leader fall, this is one of the reasons I thought
it might not be too far fetched to compare the forces involved(OK OK, a
short leader fall).
(SNIP) I believe most of us are concerned with the forces generated if we
capsize in a tide rip or in gnarly wind waves. Under these conditions, the
yakker-paddle-boat system will not generate anything like the forces in a
climbing rope in a leader fall." (SNIP)
Yes, of course, and an argument might be made to use a fairly slender Nylon
line for maximum stretchiness, but not so thin it would break under
momentary loads of a couple thousand pounds.
Nick Lyle
Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1999 10:55:37 -0700 (PDT)
From: Phil Huck
Subject: [Paddlewise] Paddle Leashes - a good point about them.
I was paddling with my brothers on Cotton Lake in MN. Waves were good -
about 1.5 feet, we had a stiff wind and white caps. As we had just arrived
at the lake we were all fired up and the prospect of waves and the small
craft warning - "made us praise the water gods" (Nealy, 1985)
Anyways, we paddled out and around an island in the middle. and decided that
we ought to "test" my new paddle paws. I dropped my leashed paddle into the
water and proceeded to pull myself around using the new paws.
I noticed a huge amount of drag on my boat. Looking back, I saw my paddle
twisting and bucking, rising and diving.
We decided to further test this, being with experienced, blood relatives. We
grouped up and I dumped. One brother stuck near my boat as it started to be
blown away. And the other brother stayed with me as I waited to give it some
lead, upon which I would swim after it.
Turns out, in the middle of the whitecaps and stiff wind, I had no problem
watching it as the leashed paddle acted as a sea anchor. Had the velcro gave
way I am sure it would have been a different story.
Velcro is a powerful thing. I have never seen it fail. But, like duct tape,
it is not infallible. I make sure it is on somewhat loose so the shaft can
slide through the loop easily, but I make an extra note to see if it is
completely in contact with itself.
Well, I am gonna make like a baby and head out.
Phil Huck
Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1999 14:12:08 EDT
From: Harold HTERVORT
Subject: Re: [Paddlewise] boat tether
Dan Hagen wrote
(SNIP) This is an interesting idea. The potential drawbacks I see are: (1)
The length of the tether. It would seem to me that using the bow painter as
the tether increases the possibility of a nasty entanglement. That's a lot
of line floating around with you in the water. (2) The use of a side-release
buckle. These do not release well when under tension. (See my earlier
comments on this.) On the other hand, as you noted your idea does have some
advantages. (SNIP)
Dan,
Thanks for your comments.
1.Using the length of the painter could be a problem. But I didn't mean to
imply hooking onto the end of the free painter. I was talking about clipping
the biner onto the painter rope while the clip/biner on the (free) end of
the painter is still clipped onto the boat near the cockpit. The separation
between the body and the boat would then be limited by the length of the
tether (maybe 4 ft?). Since the tether biner could slide along the length of
the painter, you would have the freedom of moving anywhere from four feet
aft of the aft painter attachment point to 4 ft beyond the bow. You *would*
have the option of unhooking the painter hook/biner and attaching it
directly to the tether biner, giving you another 7 to 8 ft of freedom beyond
the bow, which would be handy if you wanted to swim-tow your boat.
2.True, but since the side-release buckle is in front of you, within easy
reach, you could use one hand to release the tension as you released the
buckle with the other. I know that SRBs have drawbacks, but I have started
to use them in place of other hooks and biners because they are: (a)
lightweight (don't sink the towline so quickly when released); (b) cheap;
(c) unaffected by saltwater; (d) unlikely to hook onto deck fittings or
other catchalls and entrap you as a biner can so easily do; and (e) a bit
more likely to break in the event of the system being loaded beyond what my
body might survive (acting as a weak-link).
Happy Paddling,
Harold
Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1999 15:36:05 -0400 (EDT)
From: Elaine Harmon
Subject: Re: [Paddlewise] boat tether
Harold wrote:
(SNIP) I know that SRBs have drawbacks, but I have started to use them in
place of other hooks and biners because they are: (a) lightweight (don't
sink the towline so quickly when released); (b) cheap; (c) unaffected by
saltwater; (d) unlikely to hook onto deck fittings or other catchalls and
entrap you as a biner can so easily do; Surely none of us uses non-locking
biners! (SNIP)
Surely none of us uses non-locking biners!
(SNIP) and (e) a bit more likely to break in the event of the system being
loaded beyond what my body might survive (acting as a weak-link). (SNIP)
Interesting. That weakness has stopped me from considering using them to
fasten anything, but you have a point. Another thing, however: in cold water
(or with neoprene gloves on) are you going to be able to release it easily?
Slainte! e
Elaine Harmon
Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1999 15:49:17 EDT
From: Harold HTERVORT
Subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Tethers, forces, skirts, tow hitch under boat
Nick Lyle writes:
(SNIP) A disadvantage of the SPRAY SKIRT AS TETHER idea is that you might
rip your skirt or damage it's elastic just when you really need a good spray
skirt. (SNIP)
If you experience the types of forces you are talking about in your other
thread. I haven't and I probably wouldn't use the tether in anything which
could possibly generate such forces. But you make a good point. I have
considered the idea of having a belt around my body, with a strap running
through the grab loop to the side-release buckle. I'm just not sure it isn't
overkill.
Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1999 13:31:16 -0700
From: Whitesavage & Lyle
Subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Tethers, forces, skirts, tow hitch under boat
I do like the simplicity of your spray skirt idea. The more lines and
tethers we come up with, the more likely we are to become tangled. I would
have thought that all this worry about tethers was exaggerated, except that
someone appears to have drowned because of becoming tangled in a tether
while fishing from a kayak in the San Juans this summer. A simple large,
easy to operate carabiner clipping the skirt loop to a short tether does
seem to be nice and simple. The more I think about it the better I like it.
Nick Lyle
Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1999 16:23:49 EDT
From: Harold HTERVORT
Subject: Re: [Paddlewise] boat tether / SRBs
Elaine wrote:
(SNIPS) Surely none of us uses non-locking biners!
and
(SNIP) more likely to break in the event of the system being loaded beyond
what my body might survive (acting as a weak-link). (SNIP)
and
(SNIP) Interesting. That weakness has stopped me from considering using
them to fasten anything, but you have a point. Another thing, however: in
cold water (or with neoprene gloves on) are you going to be able to release
it easily? e (SNIP)
Good points, Elaine.
I'm certain SRBs *would* be hard to handle with gloves/cold hands, though
addition of the quick-release straps others have described on this list
might solve that problem.
But I also expect locking biners would prove to be as hard or even harder to
release, as would many other types of clips. I could even argue that
stainless steel or aluminum biners are the *last* thing I would want to
handle with bare hands in cold conditions. Truth is, I can't talk from
experience on this.
I've never used locking biners because of the difficulty of one-handed use
and the supposition that they would seize in sand and saltwater conditions.
All the commercially-available tow/swiftwater rescue systems I've seen use
non-locking biners, but provide ways of stowing them in pockets or the like
to prevent snagging, in spite of common swiftwater-rescue practice of
specifying lockers.
What are your experiences with locking biners in sea conditions?
Anyone else?
Still thinking and learning,
Harold.
Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1999 17:06:40 -0400 (EDT)
From: Elaine Harmon
Subject: Re: [Paddlewise] boat tether / SRBs
Harold wrote:
(SNIP) What are your experiences with locking biners in sea conditions?
(SNIP)
(SNIP) Sea conditions? We don't got them thangs hyar... we got warm water,
etc... and here I am trying to foresee and provide for cold water, high
winds if the weather changes on me (which it does in the Hebrides), and
paddling alone in a light boat. Got to have, I think, paddle leash and
personal tether and anything else I can think of. (will use float bags plus
sea sock; will get marine radio, have flares, etc., etc.) (SNIP)
Slainte! e
Elaine Harmon
Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1999 18:13:18 EDT
From: Dan Williams
Subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Velcro
(SNIP) Good discussion on tethers, I hope it is being archived on the
Paddlewise site. (SNIP)
Dan Williams
Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1999 16:03:49 -0700
From: Whitesavage & Lyle
Subject: [Paddlewise] Tether yanking
I may have alarmed some paddlewisers with my "wild guess" high estimates of
the forces that might act on a personal tether. Just in case anyone is under
the impression that I know what I am talking about I'd like to state
formally that I DO NOT KNOW WHAT I AM TALKING ABOUT! My discussion of the
forces that might come to bear on a tether system was hypothetical and is
not based on empirical information. Soothingly,
Nick Lyle
Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 09:25:51 +1000
From: Nick Gill
Subject: [Paddlewise] olive cleats
in response to a couple of queries about olive cleats
i've described them before but i'll try again.
they are about 1.5-2inches long, plastic and shaped more or less like an
olive (!!).
one end is flattened and has a hole in it. This end also has a opening
crosswise through the cleat which encompasses the end hole. To secure shock
cord to the cleat pass it through the end hole push it out of the crosswise
opening and knot it so that it won't pass back through the end hole.
the other half of the cleat contains the actual cleat. there is hole in the
middle of the cleat, running top to bottom. contiguous with this is a groove
running along the top of the cleat. This groove contains the cleat 'teeth'.
The shock cord attached at the other end is passed around or through
whatever is to be secured, up through the top to bottom hole and cleated
into the 'teethed' groove. Voila!
Hope this makes sense
these babies are wonderful. they are cheap (AUS$1), strong, easy to use and
readily released. My favourite marine shop has even found a source of black
ones - very smart. We use them to secure deck bags, spare paddles, paddle
leashes ,just about anything to out decks or ourselves. I have used them for
years and have never lost anything secured with them even in surfing
sessions in biggish waves. I was recently creamed off a promontory by a wave
my companion reckoned was 4m (big enough anyway even if not this big, I just
remember big. I got a little careless for thirty seconds and paid the price)
and lost not a thing.
I also use them on my deck bungies which are threaded with netting. I
tighten up the deck bungie using the cleats when paddling or going in or out
through surf. I haven't lost anything from under the netting for a long
time.
A online source might be http://www.jollyroger.com.au/ I think they have
them.
nick
Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1999 16:26:48 -0700
From: Dan Hagen
Subject: Re: [Paddlewise] boat tether
Harold wrote:
(SNIP) 1. Using the length of the painter could be a problem. But I didn't
mean to imply hooking onto the end of the free painter. I was talking about
clipping the biner onto the painter rope while the clip/biner on the (free)
end of the painter is still clipped onto the boat near the cockpit. (SNIP)
I'm sorry, I simply misunderstood your suggestion. This makes more sense.
Regarding the use of side-release buckles you wrote:
(SNIP) (d) unlikely to hook onto deck fittings or other catchalls and
entrap you as a biner can so easily do; and (e) a bit more likely to break
in the event of the system being loaded beyond what my body might survive
(acting as a weak-link). (SNIP)
I certainly have never suggested using a 'biner. The plastic cam buckles
that I use (also referred to as lever buckles) are also lightweight, cheap,
and unaffected by saltwater. I do not believe that they are any stronger
than a side-release buckle. But they are easier to release when under
tension, particularly if you only have one hand free. Your approach of using
one hand to release the tension requires two hands.
Dan Hagen
Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 00:36:50 -0700
From: Doug Lloyd
Subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Self Tethering with tow belt
Nick asks:
(SNIP) Doug Lloyd,
It sounds to me like you use the tow belt to attach a personal tether to
yourself. Is this the case?
Can you describe the tether system that works best for you in detail?
What sort of quick release belt do you wear?
How long is the tether? Is the tether made of webbing?
How do you attach what kind of clip or carabiner to the webbing?
How and where do you clip the carabiner to the boat?
How is the tether joined to the belt?
How does it all work in practice?
(SNIP)
Nick, et al:
Nothing elaborate, nothing radical or creative. I just used stuff from
around the kayak retailer. I have a Lotus PFD with the standard lower chest
tow belt that threads through in behind the pockets and around back then
forwards again with a quick release infront. I have two "D" rings on the
back. One ring has a short river tow, yellow web line that coils into a
pouch. I use it for towing people's boats in moving water and clipping onto
wayward paddles, dead BCU paddlers (G), and such, with the caribeaner on the
end. This caribeeanerer is normally clipped to the front pocket strap when
not in use. And, when I want to tether myself for whatever reason, I clip
this same caribneneeerer on the end of the short tow line to my deck line.
Should I come out of the boat, the line is long enough as it uncoils, to
allow manoverability. As I mentioned in a previous post, my old rope tether
was just too non-tangle proof and hard to access from behind the cockpit.
This short tow is a Lotus product, but is not meant for towing heavy loads,
but has prooved strong enough.
Now, as far as the other "D" ring, it hold a North Water product that is
essentially a heavy guage bungy cord covered with an accordianed tubular web
strap. The "D" ring is sewn right into the end of the line. On the other end
of the line, is a caribbbeaner. Under no tension, the entire arrangement is
about 24 inches. This is just the right size to wrap around and connect to
the front PFD pocket strap, right where the shorty tow carribeanner is. As
the two carriibenners are different units, I can tell at a glance which line
I'm grabbing by the caribner chosen. I am going to make a modification to
the PFD however, as a problem happens when I open the pocket to get out a
power bar, the carnarabineers fall to the deck. As you are guessing, 24
inches isn't very long for anything. Well, what I use now for long tows is a
50 foot line in a throw bag (Canadian law requires a 50' heaving line) The
bag has a loop at one end, and yep, a carinener at the other. The bag is
kept in a net bag on the front dech for thowing at my good buddies and pals,
the Canadian Coast Guard :-). When I do need it for a long tow line, I
unclip the caribner with the short bungy line, clip it to the throw bag's
loop, then clip the throw bag's crabiner to the victim of circumstances'
kayak, and paddle away, The bungy gives some shock absorbtion. I can also
tie off the 50' line at a shorter length, depending upon need. Drawbacks to
these modifications I made. Well, there is a fair bit of stuff hanging
behind me and to the side, which inhibits sprayskirt reattachment, and I
look like a SarTech come wall-climber come Sylvestor Stallon meets Inspector
Gadjet, but at least I'm ready for some S&M with Deb (G).
My previous tow rope was a Lotus product, 50' line, built into a pouch that
hung at the side of the PFD. It always felt a bit bulky at my side. It did
not tie off well at different lenghts, and I had to run it at full length to
get the benefits of shock absorption. This is the line I used to tow Andrew
in the full gale off the Storm Islands for 6 or 7 hours. I would have like a
bit shorter tow, especially with his incapacitation. BTW, I did not have any
problems with the rudder/tow line tangle problem whilst underway. I have a
home made flag pole on the back deck, and it helped the line to ride over
the rudder mostly. (You can see what my back deck looks like in the latest
issue of Sea Kayaker Magazine. The article on making the paddle float rescue
work, shows a color picture, taken by paddlewiser wise guy Kirby Stevens, of
me facing backwards, where you can see the flag pole). The tow off the Storm
Islands was probably one of the more rougher, dramatic ones in the history
of this sport, no exaggeration. Despite some flaws with the Lotus system I
used at the time, I must say that having state of the art gear makes a huge
difference to life and limb, as it were. Don't ever underevaluate the
importance of good gear, no matter what anyone may say to you. And
customizing gear or making your own equivalent for your particular needs is
an option more paddlers should explore.
Now, where is my dictionary, lets see, cariben...
BC'in Ya
Doug Lloyd
Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 20:48:43 +1000
From: Peter Osman
Subject: [Paddlewise] Tangled Up In Blue, Self Rescue in Kleppers & Velcro
Doug Lloyd wrote
(SNIP) Peter my good man, I have found out since my post that the velcro
arrangement has been modified on the new leashes by North Water. It was a
single wrap around. As far as I know, it was a good quality Velcro, but
!!!!!!!!!! (SNIP)
Thanks Doug et al for the Velcro/tether comments (not often I'm thought of
as good :~)
Reason I use velcro is distrust that a knife will cut a tether loose when
its needed and fear of clumsily slashing a foldable. OTOH the velcro might
be fine in warm climates where gloves are not de rigeur but I imagine it
would be near impossible to undo velcro while wearing gloves in the cold -
so I guess when its cold bring back the knife.
All the best, PeterO
Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 05:32:58 -0700
From: Dave Kruger
Subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Self Tethering with tow belt
Doug Lloyd wrote:
(SNIP) Now, where is my dictionary, lets see, cariben...(SNIP)
c a r a b i n e r
Mneumonic: carab + in + (h)er
as in ... "She ate the carab beetle and now it's in 'er!
Dave Kruger
Astoria, OR
onetime spelling champ (chump?)
Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 09:42:20 EDT
From: Harold HTERVORT
Subject: Re: [Paddlewise] boat tether
Dan Hagen writes:
(SNIP) I certainly have never suggested using a 'biner. The plastic cam
buckles that I use (also referred to as lever buckles) are also lightweight,
cheap, and unaffected by saltwater. (SNIP)
Dan,
Didn't mean to imply you advocate biners in this application. I was just
running off at the keyboard. :^)
I've also used plastic cam buckles in certain apps. Sometimes they slipped,
sometimes they released too easily, and sometimes they were juuust right!
Sure wish there were perfect answers to (my) perfectly absurd questions. :^)
Thanks again,
Harold
Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 20:19:59 -0400
From: Michael Daly
Subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Paddle tethers
My paddle tether is made with 5 mm bungie cord. The paddle shaft is attached
with 37mm (1.5in) wide webbing covered with Velcro. In order to prevent it
from coming undone, I added a 25mm (1 in) D ring and a short bit of 20mm
(3/4 in) webbing. A side release clip is attached to the 20mm webbing and
this slips through the D ring. A short piece of webbing on the other end of
the side release clip forms a loop into which the bungie ties. At the other
end of the bungie, I have a short section of 25mm webbing that has a loop
for the bungie and clips into a nylon cam buckle on the kayak deck.
The Velcro allows me to set a fixed size (and friction) on the shaft so that
the thing doesn't slide around too much. Pulling on the leash tightens the
webbing around the shaft and prevents the Velcro from coming undone.
This arrangement gives me the choice of releasing the paddle from the leash
at the shaft via the side release or from the deck via the cam buckle. In a
real emergency, I can also cut the bungie with my rescue knife.
I've practiced releasing both ends during inverted aqueous manouvers. I also
set the bungie length such that it doesn't interfere with my rolling.
I attached the cam with 3M 5200, assured by all that the stuff never
releases. My SO pulled the thing off a couple of weeks ago as she came
alongside looking for a kiss. It lasted a year. I haven't reattached it, as
I still haven't decided how I'll do so.
I like the tether.
Mike
Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 11:06:11 +1000From: Nick Gill
Subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Paddle tethers
Michael Daly wrote:
(SNIP) I attached the cam with 3M 5200, assured by all that the stuff
never releases. My SO pulled the thing off a couple of weeks ago as she came
alongside looking for a kiss. It lasted a year. I haven't reattached it, as
I still haven't decided how I'll do so. (SNIP)
nuts and bolts? get that drill spinning
Nick
Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 06:23:48 EDT
Subject: [Paddlewise] Smooching
WOW!! THAT WAS SOME KISS!!!!
Sandy Kramer
Miami
Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 14:20:55 -0500
From: Chuck Holst
Subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Paddle Leash
Dan Hagen wrote:
(SNIP) I also use 3/16" shock cord for my paddle leash. Great stuff. Very
light, and it comes in pretty colors. :-) But I use a much shorter piece (3'
or so) running from the paddle shaft to a loop around my wrist. (I use a
separate boat tether to provide a connection from my body to the boat.) The
slack in the leash is wrapped loosly around the paddle when paddling. The
slack is necessary so that I can set the paddle down and use my tethered
hand without it yanking the paddle about. The wrist loop I use is sized so
that if my hand is relaxed (or clenched) it will not pull out of the loop,
but if I scrunch up my hand it will slip free. Of course I remove the leash
in the surf. (SNIP)
This sounds very much like the paddle leash I made for my old Wind Swift,
except that I used 1/8-inch cord and it was only about half as long as
yours. The loop around the paddle shaft was loose enough that it could slide
back and forth easily, and the wrist loop was loose enough that I could pull
my hand out easily when, like you, I scrunched it up. For a paddle park, I
added a plastic snap hook to one of my deck lines, which I would snap onto
the wrist loop when I wasn't paddling.
Chuck Holst